FLP Coir Bio-Log Installation Guide

Size:   3.0m x 300mm diameter (pre-drilled or standard)

Description

FLP Coir Bio-Logs are made of 100% natural and biodegradable Coconut Fibre and consist of tightly packed fibre wrapped in either 2mm Polypropylene netting (diamond shaped with a mesh size of 50mm) or our 5mm heavy duty coir yarn netting (diamond shaped with a mesh size of 50mm) and are typically 3.0m in length x 300mm diameter.

Our coir logs are supplied all pre-drilled with 250mm deep x 25mm diameter planting cores at 165mm spacing = 6 per metre or 18 per 3.0m log – these can be fastened using our good quality hardwood fixing stakes (untreated) – Minimum 60mm diameter pointed stakes, length dependant on site conditions, normally 1200mm long (no less than 900mm)

Applications

FLP Coir Bio-Logs have many reinforcing and stabilisation uses from slope and bank stabilisation to managing stream flows, the shaping of channels, ponds and lakes. Our Coir logs are ideal for the promotion of new planting and can be used with all of our biodegradable Coir Geotextiles.

Installation Guideline

FLP Coir Bio-Logs are easily installed and will naturally blend into the environment providing ground stabilisation and an excellent growth medium for plants. Prepare the chosen site prior to the installation of the coir logs by removing any large rocks or obstructions such as tree stumps to ensure that the log makes direct contact with the soil. A trench should be dug at a depth of no more than a third of the diameter of the log used e.g. 100mm trench for a 300mm diameter coir log.

Ensure that the coir logs are laid tightly together end to end and secured together with a coir rope or other suitable tie. Once in position the coir logs are secured in position with suitably sized untreated hardwood fixing stakes (minimum of 60mm diameter stakes no less than 900mm in length – longer stakes to be used for softer or more unstable soil conditions).

Stakes should be positioned 300mm from either end of the coir log and both sides. Spacing for other fixing stakes should be no more than one metre apart, both sides of the coir log (closer together in poorer more unstable soil conditions. The stakes should be driven between the outer netting and the core material of the coir log (not through the log) and the stake tops should be flush or just below the top of the coir log for safety reasons and overall appearance. We recommend that at least two thirds of the fixing stake be below the ground and a third above.

Additional anchorage can be achieved by tying the fixing stakes together and to the coir log with coir rope or another suitable material. Once the coir logs have been secured in position, you may wish to backfill just below the top level of the coir log for appearance and additional planting purposes.

The use of additional coir logs above the first row up a sloping bank to create steps or terraces to promote vegetation and prevent soil erosion. Where a taller face is required, the coir logs can be stacked on each other, stepping back the rows and securing the logs together with the use of stakes and coir rope or ties.

The use of our FLP Coir Rolls (Coir Erosion Control Mat) may be required dependent on the gradient and soil conditions of the site to provide additional soil stabilisation and to promote new vegetation, these are available in 400gsm, 700gsm, 900gsm and 1200gsm. Planting

FLP Coir Bio-Logs are supplied with pre-drilled 250mm deep x 25mm diameter planting cores at 165mm spacing = 6 per metre or 18 per 3.0m log length. It is advisable that all new planting is protected from birds and other wildlife with a protective net or mesh and removed when the plants are established.

Maintenance

The installation should be inspected at regular intervals, particularly after severe weather conditions, checking the condition of the fixing stakes, replacing if necessary to ensure that the coir rolls are secure and remain in position. Protective netting should be removed once any planting has become established and is no longer required.

For latest special offers

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The following instructions are to be used only as a basic guideline and reference purposes, please contact our offices direct for additional information.

- Larger liners are securely wrapped and delivered in a protective geotextile & palletized. Ensure that no damage is caused to the liner when cutting any straps or unwrapping the protective covering.

- For example purposes If the pond is i.e. 30.0m x 20.0m. (imagine a football pitch) . Firstly, place the liner on the OUTSIDE of the pond in the CENTRE of the goalmouth.

- Unroll the liner along it’s entire length (in this case 30.0m) to the CENTRE of the opposite goalmouth. (The membrane roll will be marked with an arrow which way to unroll)

- When fabrication takes place, FLP concertina the liner along it’s length (similar to a Chinese fan). Pull the liner out from the CENTRE (in this case 10.0m) on either side to create the full width.

NOTE:Before attempting to pull the liner out width wise – flap the sheet / membrane vigorously up and down, trapping as much air underneath the liner as you can – at the same time PULL, in doing so this will allow the membrane to move freely over the protective geotextile (hovercraft effect) – instead of being dragged across it which may cause the protective geotextile to move apart.

- Sealeco EPDM Greenseal Rubber has a slightly embossed or textured surface – we recommend the use of gloves during the installation to protect the knuckles.

- Try to remove as many creases / folds as possible during the installation process – the membrane SHOULD however be loose-laid and under not under stress.

- Place liner in anchor trench, DO NOT SECURE, just use a few small stones or sand bags to hold the liner in place – start to fill with water, the liner will automatically pull inwards if it needs to settle – once you are satisfied that the liner has assumed it’s final position – cover the anchor trench with soil.

- Refer to our Polyfelt Installation guidelines if you require a geotextile protective overlay or underlay

Trelleborg Waterproofing has therefore changed name to Nordic Waterproofing. SealEco was created through Axcel´s acquisition of Trelleborg Waterproofing, and is now a business unit within Nordic Waterproofing Group.Nordic Waterproofing is headquartered in Höganäs and has production facilities at three locations in Scandinavia. SealEco´s main office and production facility is located in Värnamo, Sweden.

Flexible Lining Products material ”Greenseal Rubber ” is manufactured by Sealeco under their Elastoseal brand, renamed by FLP and sold throughout the UK under our registered trade mark Greenseal Rubber with our trade partners.

FLP Coir Rolls & Coir Biologs are best for the control of soil erosion and conditioning soil. Made from coir fiber, it is naturally resistant to fungal and bacterial decomposition and is cheaper and environmentally friendly than the usual synthetic geotextiles. They hold soil in place and prevent erosion, dissipating the force of heavy rains and run of water. It provides good soil support for years, allowing natural vegetation to become established. Coir geotextiles promote the growth of new vegetation by absorbing water and preventing the topsoil from drying out. As it has strength and durability, it protects slopes and help natural vegetation to take root, coir geotextiles are available as woven, meshes and nets and non woven.
FLP offer varying densities dependent upon application. Over a period of time the eco friendly and biodegradable coir disintegrates completely, leaving only humus.

Can absorb water, allowing re-vegetation in low rain areas

Can dissipate the energy of following water and absorb the excess solar radiation.

Can be successfully utilized in controlling even the steepest of slopes from erosion

100% Natural fiber, extracted from coconut husk.

Adds organic material to soil.

High tensile strength (absorbing or attracting moisture from the air)

Promotes vegetative growth

100% Bio-degradable and environmentally friendly

Tough, durable, versatile and resilient

High tear-strength resistance

Easy to install/maintain/ patch-up.

Follows the contour of the soil surface and has exceptional hygroscopic properties

APPLICATIONS

• Coir Bio-logs - lake & stream stabilisation, filtration
• Lake ,pond, river, irrigation and drainage channel bank
• Exposed slopes in parks and conservation areas
• Slopes with risk of erosion in new development sites,exposed slopes in amenity areas in parks, golf courses etc
• FLP Coir Geocell Silt & Sediment Barrier

A prominent UK company (that FLP were trading with at the time) unbelievably deemed it necessary to trademark our name Greenseal as their own - for what one can only assume for no other reason, but to benefit directly from our efforts ,investment & time spent promoting our material - rather than be original, use their own funds and create a brand of their own.

Upon discovery of their “trademark”, FLP notified the manufacturer Trelleborg,Sweden and through legal council / direct correspondence, we have an legal agreement, allowing us to unbelievably having to trademark OUR very own material “Greenseal” to Greenseal Rubber. FLP are bound by the terms of this agreement not to reveal it’s contents”

We obviously had no reason to suspect that our own material / name was under threat of being trade marked by a company, that until then, FLP had enjoyed a very healthy, open and honest and ethical trading relationship - hence we are still very angry and deeply dissapointed by these events and as such will use every opportunity within the market place to use our experience, as an example to hopefully help other small business against similar potential threats and unsavoury practices

Flexible Lining Products will continue to protect our interest and highlight that Greenseal / Greenseal Rubber / Greenseal EPDM is and always will be the material introduced into the UK by Flexible Lining Products irrespective of whatever name preceeds the word “Greenseal” under the guise of a company “rebrand” or indeed if this company decides not to use the word “Greenseal” at all

We highly recommend in order to protect your name,business and or long term interest you need to register your brand name / trade mark - thereby stopping unethical persons or companies benefiting directly from your long term investment and hard work. Would you want to trade with a company like this ?

Intellectual property (IP) plays a vital role in the modern business environment. Whether it be protecting and realising the value of your inventions, proprietary technology, brands or original designs, getting the right advice is key. You may also need to avoid conflict with others’ intellectual property rights, and whatever the situation Wynne-Jones, Lainé & James have extensive in-house technical and legal expertise to assist you. http://www.wynne-jones.com

This fact sheet sets out practical details for the care, restoration and creation of great crested newt habitat.

How to recognise a great crested newt (Triturus cristatus) The great crested, or warty, newt is the UK’s largest newt species, with adults reaching up to 165 mm in length. Adult newts are dark brown or black on top, with fine white spots, the “warts”, on the sides of the head and body. Both sexes are orange or yellow underneath, often vividly so, with black blotches and spots.

In the breeding season, adult males have a jagged crest along the back and tail, with a slight gap where the tail meets the body; the crest flops over when the newt is out of water. Adult males also have a pale stripe along the side of the tail, usually white, silver or blue-grey in colour. The males of the commoner smooth newt also have a crest, but are grey-brown in colour with dark spots.

Females lack the crest and the pale tail stripe, but have a yellow-orange line along the base of the tail and occasionally on their backs. Sub-adults (or “efts”) resemble the female and larvae (”tadpoles”) are spotted brown, with a thin filament at the end of the tail and external, feathery gills. Eggs are a clear, oval jelly capsule, with a yellow-white embryo.

Where great crested newts occur Great crested newts are traditionally associated with clusters of ponds in rough grassland. However, they will readily colonise garden ponds, moats, brick pits and even concrete tanks when local populations are strong. Several ponds linked by grassland are essential to maintain a healthy, inter-related population, known as a metapopulation;.

Legal protection Great crested newts are protected by both the Wildlife and Countryside Act (1981) and the Conservation (Natural Habitats etc) Regulations (1994). Killing, injuring, capturing, handling or possessing the species is prohibited, as is damage to their habitats and trade in the species. Activities which involve the handling or disturbance of newts require a license form English Nature.

Other species of newt, frogs and toads do have some protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act and cannot by sold. Only the rare natterjack toad has the same level of protection as great crested newt.

Why do great crested newts need help? As with many vulnerable species in Britain, the major problem faced by great crested newts is the loss or fragmentation of habitats. Many ponds have been filled in by development and many more ponds have been neglected as they have fallen into disuse. Neglect causes a pond to become surrounded and invaded by scrub, or to fill with silt and debris, leading to a decline in water quality and eventually causing the pond to dry out. Some ponds have been managed insensitively, either by deepening and straightening the sides, or by the introduction of fish, which feed on newt larvae. As newts often rely on clusters of ponds, the loss of ponds within a cluster, or of grassland habitat linking the ponds, is detrimental to the whole population.

Managing habitats for great crested newts

An ideal pond for great crested newts will include the following favourable aquatic features.

A still water pond of 50m2 to 250m2, preferably with several ponds in a group.

Gently sloping sides are preferable for easy access, although great crested newt does occur in some steep-sided ponds. In these cases, a small ramp might help access. .

Shallow areas near the margins will warm up quickly in spring, but deeper areas (over 1.5m) are useful for protection from frost and to prevent the pond from drying out before the tadpoles have developed. .

Pond clusters should include temporary or ephemeral ponds, as these will have fewer predators, such as fish or predatory invertebrates. .

Water can be slightly nutrient-rich and with a pH of 6 or above. The water should be free from pollution and hence buffered from roads and arable land. .

The south of the pond should be free from scrub or over-hanging branches to allow sunlight onto the pond; this not only warms the water, but encourages aquatic plants. Adult newts enjoy some areas shaded by scrub or trees. .

Aquatic and emergent plants are essential as a refuge and for egg-laying, but some open areas are also required. Favourite plants include water speedwell, water crowfoot, water starwort, float grass, water mint, water forget-me-not, brooklime and watercress. .

Aquatic invertebrates are essential for food, including water snails, fly larvae, water lice, worms and Daphnia. .

A lack of fish, including small species such as sticklebacks is essential and a lack of wildfowl preferred. .

The habitat around the pond should include:.

Uneven grassland, with tussocks and patches of scrub and trees. 1 ha of suitable habitat will support approximately 250 newts and less than 1⁄2 ha is unlikely to support a viable colony. .

Plenty of shelter, such as logs, piles of stones and tree roots. These provide daytime shelter and should be damp, but not waterlogged. Shelter that remains frost-free is vital for hibernation. .

If patches of suitable habitat and ponds are fragmented, corridors, such as hedges and grassy strips will help to link them. .

Management tasks Ponds occasionally require management to stall the natural processes of filling with silt and drying out. Management work should not be carried out unless essential for retaining the pond and expert advice is essential. Where work is required, the following guidelines will minimise disturbance to newts. Although guidelines for newts will benefit most wildlife, disturbance to other species using the pond should also be taken into account:.

Ponds choked by aquatic or marginal vegetation may need to be cleared out. Clearance work is best carried out in the winter, when newts are least likely to be active. Only part of the pond (up to one third) should be cleared in any one year. Clearance by hand is preferable where ever possible and debris removed should be left on the bank for a day or so to allow pond creatures to make their way back to the water..

Dredging of ponds might be required if a build up of silt means the pond is in danger of drying up. All pond work is best carried out in late autumn, before water levels rise and soils become water logged. Unless the pond is in very bad condition, some silt or vegetation should be left. .

Rubbish dumped in ponds can create pollution as well as being unsightly, however, newts may use some rubbish, such as plastic bags, as shelter, or for egg-laying, so care should be taken when removing it. If possible, leave litter in place until after the breeding season. .

Fish can be removed by draining the pond in early autumn, but permission from the Environment Agency will be required. .

Avoid using agricultural or garden chemicals in or around the pond .

Management of terrestrial habitats should also take account of the needs of great crested newts. In some cases the grassland may be of interest botanically and care should be taken to avoid damage to wild flowers. .

Great crested newts can be active at any time of the year, other than the very depths of winter and are less likely to be active by day, although they may shelter in tussocks of grass. Both grass and scrub are best cut in autumn or winter, with a high cut recommended for areas of tussocks. A medium length of grass is preferred and newts are unlikely to be on land in May and June. .

Hibernation sites should not be disturbed during the winter. .

Grazing, like mowing, can also control scrub growth and is less likely to damage newts sheltering in the grass. Advice on the most appropriate management of grasslands should be sought, but aim to create an uneven grassland structure and fence off ponds if livestock are likely to damage the margins. Avoid over grazing. .

Scrub clearance or the cutting back of over-hanging trees should avoid disturbance to the pond and other species, such as nesting birds. Only cut a few trees in any one year. .

Terrestrial litter, such as dumped rubble, might be used as a refuge, especially during the winter. Consider making these eyesores more attractive, but leave them in place if possible! .

Creating new ponds Great crested newts will regularly colonise new ponds, provided the location and conditions are suitable. If the terrestrial habitat allows, creating new ponds next to old ones may be preferable to restoration work. Advice on pond construction, including liners, should be sought; all contractors should be informed of the legal obligations and the following guidelines:.

New ponds should be sited in an area the collects water naturally, or near a suitable supply, but damage to existing areas valuable to wildlife should be avoided..

The size and shape of the pond should take into consideration the points raised in the section on ideal habitats, including sloped sides and an open aspect to the south. Several small ponds, each within 500m of the next, are preferable to one large one, providing they are linked by suitable habitat; a variety of ponds, including temporary, sunny and partially shaded is ideal. .

Woodland edge, scrub or hedgerows within 50m of the pond will provide hibernation sites. .

Areas subject to pollution, agricultural or road run-off are not suitable. Where proposed sites are near roads or developments, newt-proof fencing might be required, increasing costs substantially..

Access to the pond should be considered, as disturbance to habitats or the introduction of fish will be problematic. .

The planting of aquatic and emergent vegetation will help the colonisation of new ponds in gardens. The list of plants for an ideal pond is a good starting point, but plants occurring naturally in the vicinity of the new pond are recommended. It is best to avoid introducing plants, into new ponds on commons, farmland and in villages, but tip in a few buckets of water from a nearby pond. Never introduce fish or wildfowl. .

The colonisation of a new pond by invertebrates can be encouraged by using a couple of buckets of water from existing local ponds, or spreading a thin layer of top soil (I spadeful per 4m2) in the base of the new pond..

The habitat around the pond should be a mosaic of grass and scrub and can be created by planting scattered scrub, or opening up areas covered with scrub, as required. At least one hectare of suitable habitat should be within 200m of the pond, preferably adjacent to it. Shelters can be created from piles of stones or logs, with some including frost-free shelter for hibernation. .

——————————————————————————–Contacts and further information This information sheet contains only brief guidelines of the work needed to restore, create or manage ponds. Before undertaking any work, expert advice is essential; as a license from English Nature may be required for some management tasks, it is recommended that they are contact prior to work commencing. For information on managing habitats for great crested newts, or on grants for restoring farm or village ponds, please contact:.

The above has been published with the kind permission from Helen Baczkowska Norfolk Wildlife Trust 22 Bewick House Thorpe Road Norwich Norfolk Tel: 01603 625540.

Recommended reading: English Nature leaflets: Facts about great crested newts Facts about amphibians Great crested newts; guidelines for developers.

References Scottish Natural Heritage, Information and advisory note number 4 John Baker, Froglife, personal communication and information sheets English Nature, Species Conservation Handbook John Buckley, Distribution & status of newts in Norfolk; Transactions NNNS 1989 28 (3) 221-232

Pond plants will oxygenate the water and keep it clear. Unfortunately many non-native aquatic plants readily obtainable from garden centres are invasive and will soon dominate the pond completely to the detriment of everything else.Carefully selected native species should remain in a relatively balanced state and will support more wildlife. Plants can be introduced to your pond approx. 1-2 weeks after the initial filling with water,when tap water nutrients such as chlorine and fluoride have evaporated. The best time to plant is in spring or summer when plants are actively growing. Plants can be planted into soil held in old string onion bags or baskets.

Four zones for plants

There are four ‘zones’ in which pond plants may be grown; try to have plants in each zone. The four zones are:

1. Totally submerged (in deeper water)- oxygenating plants

2. Submerged but with floating leaves (also in deep water) - oxygenating plants

3. Emergent (in shallower area) and

4. Marginal (growing in the pond edge and bog areas.)

A useful rule of thumb is to provide one oxygenating plant per 100cm2 of open water.

The taller, marginal/emergent zone plants are better on the northern edge where they won’t cast shade over the rest of the pond. In the wild, the four zones are not really distinct at all but merge into each other. Some marginal and emergent plants therefore are interchangeable.

Plants suitable for each zone, and plants to avoid,are listed below:

Pond plant lists

Recommended Plants:

Submerged oxygenators

Spike Water Milfoil Myriophyllum spicatum

Hornwort Ceratophyllym demersum (pollution intolerant)

Shining Pondweed Potamogeton lucens

Horned Pondweed Zannichellia palustris

Fennel Pondweed Potamogeton pectinatus (pollution tolerant)

Water Starwort Callitriche stagnalis (pollution intolerant)

Floating-leaved

Water Crowfoot/Buttercup Ranunculus aquatilis (pollution intolerant)

Bladderwort Urticularia spp

Frogbit Hydrocharis morsus-ranae

Broad-leaved Pondweed Potamoeton natans (pollution tolerant)

Curled Pondweed Potamogeton crispus (pollution tolerant)

Emergent

Branched Bur-reed Sparganium erectum (tall; can be invasive, but a good alternative to Typha)

Amphibious Bistort Persicaria amphibium

Arrowhead Sagittaria aquatilis

Water Crowfoot Ranunculus aquatilis

Water mint Mentha aquatica (can be invasive: also strong scent deters some insects)

Flowering Rush Butomus umbellatus

Water Plantain Alisma plantago-quuatica (tall)

Water Forget-me-not Myosotis Scorpiodes

Stinking Iris Iris foetidissima (tallish)

Marsh Cinquefoil Potentilla palustris

Swamped grasses - good for pond invertebrates

Yellow flag Iris Pseudacorus (can be a little invasive)

Marginals

Flowering Rush Butomus umbellatus

Lady’s Smock Cardamine pratensis

Marsh marigold Caltha palustris

Purple Loosestrife Lythrum salicaria (tall; a wonderful bee plant)

Gipsywort Lycopus europaeus

Sedges large and small

Meadowsweet Filipendula ulmaria (tallish; good for birds in autumn)

Brooklime Veronica beccabunga

Ragged Robin Lychnis flos-cuculi

Soft Rush Juncus effusus

Water Forget-me-not Myosotis scorpioides

Bungle Ajuga reptans

Water Avens Geium rivale (spreading)

Marsh Woundwort Stachys palustris (tall)

Great Willowherb Epilobium hirsutum (tall)

Hemp Agrimony Eupatorium cannabinum (tall)

Fleabane Pulicaria dysenterica

Rough grassland with Creeping Bent Agrostis stolonifera,

Marsh foxtail Alopecurus geniculatus.

Fool’s watercress Apium nodiflorum

Common Spike-rush Eleocharis palustris

Water pepper Persicaria hydropiper

Silverweed Potentilla anserina

Creeping Jenny Lysimachia nummularia (low growing ground cover)

Water Dock Rumex hydrolapathum (may be invasive)

Plants to AVOID at all costs:

1. Australian Swamp Stonecrop/New Zealand Pygmyweed Crassula helmsii akaTillaea recurva

2. Water Fern Azolla Filiculoides

3. Parrot’s feather/Brazilian watermilfoil Myriophyllum aquaticum

4. Floating Pennywort Hydrocotyle ranunculoides

5. Himalayan Balsam Impatiens glandulifera

6. Canadian Pondweed Elodea canadensis

7. Curly (Canadian) Pondweed Lagarosiphon major or Elodea crispus

8. Nuttal’s pondweed Elodeanutalli

Native plants that tend to become invasive;

only recommended for larger ponds:

1. Floating sweet-grass Glyceria fluitans

2. Reedmaces Typha latifolia and Typha angustifolia

3. White water lily Nymphaea alba (pollution tolerant);usually prefers deep water 2m deep (could be grown in submerged pots)

4. Yellow water lily Nuphar lutea (pollution tolerant) (could be grown in submerged pots)

5. Fringed Water lily Nymphoides peltata (could be grown in submerged pots)

6. Lesser and Greater Spearworts Ranunculus lingua and R. flammula (could be grown in submerged pots)

7. Bogbean Menyanthes trifoliata

Pond open for business: attracting wildlife

A wildlife pond may take over 5 years to become fully established. Certain animals can be encouraged to visit by providing particular features:

A patch of unmown long grass, logs and stones bordering the pond - for froglets, newts also butterflies.

Floating leaved plants - for dragonflies and damselflies to lay their eggs upon.

Logs and stones on a sunny open bank - that some dragonflies like to perch upon.

Tall emergent plants with hollow stems - for damselflies and dragonflies to lay their eggs upon.

These insects may take 3 years to mature, so need a relatively stable habitat with lots of other pond creatures to eat.

Damp bare earth - which house martins and other birds will use to help build their nests.

The plant Water Starwort - seems to be favoured by newts for egg laying.

Shallow areas - for birds to bathe in; the sound of dripping water attracts some warblers.

A nearby compost heap - may be used by grass snakes to lay their eggs in if you are lucky.

Night-scented plants like honeysuckle and the provision of batboxes - may attract bats.

A beach or chicken wire hedgehog ramp - so thirsty hedgehogs can have a drink (or a swim) without getting trapped.

Meadowsweet - will be perched upon and the seedheads eaten by finches later in the year.

Duckweed - attracts frogs by smell early in the year.

Important a wildlife pond should NOT have any fish, nor pumps, filters or fountains.

Fish will eat all the other wildlife; pumps will suck in and destroy all the smaller creatures that other wildlife depends upon for food.

Maintaining your pond for wildlife

General rules

1. Avoid chemical treatments at all times.

2. Be careful when digging or raking near or in the pond - an impetuous spade can puncture a rubber liner very easily; if using a rake, make sure the tines are pointing upwards!

3. Avoid disrupting the pond in spring and summer; try to carry out maintenance work in autumn and winter instead.

4. When introducing pond plants, native species are usually of more benefit to wildlife than exotics. For the wildlife pond purist, pond plants could be native not just to the UK but also specifically to Northumberland.

The secret to looking after a wildlife pond is to maintain a stable balance of plants and creatures, similar to what would be found in the wild. This can be achieved by ensuring that sufficient plants are present in each of the four depth zones and that there is a healthy population of pond creatures - both predators and prey. Tiny animals like Daphnia, the waterflea will graze on plants and algae and be a source of food for all the other ponds inhabitants such as dragonflies, beetles, nymphs, frogs and newts. This is why it is important not have fish or motorised pumps and filters in a wildlife pond - these will effectively remove whole sections of the pond ecology and make it very difficult to achieve a natural balance.

Practical maintenance of a wildlife pond

If the pond can be kept in this relatively balanced ecological state, it shouldn’t need very much maintenance at all. Problems don’t usually start until the pond is over 5 - 6 years old. The main things to watch for are:

Build up of dead organic matter such as fallen leaves and dead vegetation at the bottom of the pond. The water turns brown as all available oxygen is used up by the decay process.

Some dead organic matter is useful however as a substrate for other plants. Eventually, a layer of silt accumulates which makes the pond shallower. Again this silt layer can be a useful feature - for overwintering minibeasts and hibernating frogs. Providing there are no other problems, de-silting can be carried out approximately once every 5 years. The best time is in autumn before wildlife and minibeasts go into hibernation and after plants have finished flowering. Leave dredging on the edge of the pond for a few days so that minibeasts can escape back into the pond.

Encroaching vegetation. After a while, some pond plants may be growing too abundantly; these can be pulled out or divided once every year or once every two years, reducing their presence by about one fifth to one third/one half. Once again, this should be done in the autumn before minibeasts go into hibernation. Some plants can be grown in pots, which limits their spreading. Aim to make sure that at least 10%, but less than 30% of the pond surface is open for 60% of the plants present. Once again leave vegetation on the banks of the pond for a few days so that minibeasts can escape back to the pond.

Winter and summer. It is important that the pond does not become completely frozen solid in the winter. Ponds deeper than approximately 60cm do not usually become frozen right to the very bottom and should be safe. However, it is still necessary to provide some open water so that oxygen can diffuse into the pond. An easy way is to float a ball on the pond that can be removed, leaving a hole in the ice.Or rest a hot pan on the surface (remove before the ice melts completely!) Using hammers and boiling water is not recommended, as this sets up shock waves or boils wildlife.

In summer the pond may need to be topped up in hot weather. Tap water is the most convenient source, but the high level of nutrients such as fluoride and chlorine may induce algal blooms, whereby the water turns a vivid green pea soup colour. This should fade after a few days as the pond recovers its balance. Rainwater is preferable if you have a water butt. It is better to refill little and often rather than in one go. If you have an adjacent bog area, this may also need to be watered in summer.

Caring for creatures. Make sure there are sufficient areas of habitat such as logs, stones and rough vegetation at the pond edge, especially during winter when these will be used as hibernation sites by frogs, newts and others.

A note about bog habitat areas. In the wild, bogs are usually kept damp not only by inhibiting drainage from above but also by drawing up water from underneath. This is very unlikely to happen in the garden,which means that over time the bog may become progressively more acidic. One way to counter this is to bury a perforated hose under bog area. This can then by connected to a water supply so that the bog canbe watered from below.

Above article is published with the kind permission of Nothumberland Wildlife Trust.

Of the different pond types, garden ponds are most similar to freshwater ponds and they can provide a refuge and home for many freshwater dwellings creatures. A wildlife pond is one of the single best features for attracting new wildlife to the garden and it is thought that some amphibians, such as frogs,are now more common in garden ponds than in the countryside. Many pond creatures will travel far and wide to find new ponds, discovering a potential new home in no time at all. So a well designed wildlife pond can play a big part in helping to preserve our natural biodiversity, as well as being an attractive garden feature.

Ponds in the wild

Ponds in the wild may be one of several different types. Brackish ponds form in coastal regions where they receive regular influxes of salt water. Temporary ponds form in winter and dry out completely in the summer each year. Freshwater ponds form inland,fed by a combination of ground water, rainwater or surface water. Each type of pond has very different conditions and supports different kinds of wildlife.

All ponds are temporary and over time will develop into marsh, bog, and eventually wet woodland. This occurs by natural processes of siltation, the growing up of pondside vegitation and consequent drying out of surrounding habitat.

Since 1950, over half of the UK’s ponds have been lost, due to large-scale drainage schemes, chemical pollution and neglect through disuse, along with all the wildlife that depended on them. Great Crested Newts have declined by 50% since 1966. Since 1970, 10% of breeding dragonfly species have become extinct.

Designing your wildlife pond

The siting, depth profile and pond surrounds are of great importance if the pond isto be successful at attracting a range of wildlife.

Around the pond edges

Providing extra habitats around the edge of the pond will be of great benefit to wildlife. These can be created by: Placing stones, logs and tall plants in spots all around the pond edges. Allowing some long grass of other vegetation to grow up on at least one side of the pond. Building scalloped pond edges rather than a straight ones - these will provide many different micro-conditions with variations in shade and depth and temperature.

Best of all, creating an accompanying unsubmerged bog area to the north-north east side of you pond. (Details are given below) For ease of maintenance and pond-watching, it is sometimes best to have one relatively formal edge to your pond, with a straighter edge and incorporating paving, gravel path or short turf. The size of the pond is less important than including the features outlined above into the design. Although larger ponds will generally support more wildlife a small garden pond will still be an effective home for many creatures.

Siting the pond

Where? An ideal place for a pond is on level ground, in an open, sunny area, the sunnier the better, and well away from any trees. To achieve a range of conditions, it may be beneficial to choose a spot that receives a little shade at some point during the day. A location that is already damp or waterlogged is not really suitable, being at risk of constant flooding. An area that is too shady will inhibit the growth of essential oxygenating and other plants.

Pond profile

Depth. This is very important. To be attractive to wildlife, a pond should have sides with gentle slopes, not steep ones. If the pond is quite small, shallow sloping edges should be on one side at least. Extensive shallow areas 30cm wide and 4-20cm deep; especially to the south and west. A deeper zone at a minimum 60cm depth and ideally 100cm or more.

Building the pond

1. Choosing a pond liner. There are many different sorts of pond liner - plastic, fibre glass,clay and concrete, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. Overall, we would recommend liner made ofrubber, which is durable, flexible,moderately cheap and easy to work with. The size of butyl liner you will need for your pond can by calculated as:

Width + (2 x max depth) x Length + (2 x max depth)

2. Mark out your pond on the ground with a rope or hosepipe first.

3. Get digging! Dig the hole, ensuring the sides are level with a spirit level on a plank spanning the pond. Dig an extra 25cm depth to accommodate the liner ‘under-cushion’ (see below) and height of the flagstones at the pond edge. Finally, dig a trench around the perimeter of the pond for the over-hanging pond liner to drop into. If you are building an accompanying bog area, also dig out a saucer shaped depression 60cm deep on the appropriate side of the pond.

4. Lining the pond. Remove any sharp stones or other objects from the bottom of the hole and first put down a 5cm+ layer of sand , old carpet or newspapers (or try loft insulation material!) as an ‘under cushion’ for the liner proper. Unroll the rubber liner over the top with the over hanging edges falling into the trench. Any extra excess liner can be snipped off with scissors.

You will need to add a substrate for plants and animals. Sand is excellent because it is sterile and will not harbour any undesirable seeds or microbes. Spread a thin layer over the bottom of the pond.

A boggy area can be lined with liner off-cuts, overhang liner, old plastic sacks or bags, or all of these, basically anything that will help impede drainage. If using over-hanging liner, punch some holes 20cm apart in the bottom of the bog (not the pond!), then cover over with crocks and fill in the bog area with soil. To make watering the bog easier in the future, you can bury a length of perforated hose into the soil so that this may be connected up to an external water supply via a hose.

5. Filling with water. If possible, use collected rainwater to fill your pond; for most people however, filling from the tap with a hose is usually the most practical method. To stop the sand substrate dispersing, rest the nozzle on a plastic bag to absorb some of the energy. Filling may take much longer than you think so now is the time to put the kettle on for a well deserved cup of tea.Back fill the trench with soil; as the pond fills up,the liner will stretch. As the pond is filling, place turf, soil or flagstones over the exposed liner at the pond edges. Butyl liner degrades in sunlight so try not to leave areas of uncovered liner exposed for to long.

6. Waiting If you used tap water to fill your pond, in the arly stages the water may turn a vivid green colour. Do not worry - this is because tap water is full of nutrients. The colour will fade gradually as nutrients are used up and microscopic ant-eating animals start to colonise the pond.

For this reason it is best to wait a week or two before lanting any pond plants. In the meantime, place stones and logs around the edges to create some habitats for all those future pond visiting creatures.

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